Congrats on the purchase and all the effort to get it running again. You have the skills, equipment and space I sadly lack! Being in London I’d have to have a petrol and the LR specialists I spoke to advised against the 5.0 S/C. Being so few of them around means garages aren’t used to working on them and an estimate for the timing chain job is £4-6k. So I’m keeping my eye out for a good 4.2 S/C.

For corrosion treatment and protection I suggest you check out Bilt Hamber products. I settled on them for my 1971 RR.

Thanks for all of the detailed posts - made for interesting reading. 1971 Suffix A Range Rover
1985 Mercedes W123 230E
2011 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE
2014 BMW 535i Lux
2015 BMW i3 Rex
2018 BMW R1250 GS

Replaced both MAF’s and put 2 new air filters in today. The filters weren’t bad but they weren’t new.

I then fitted the new MAPT sensor that lives on the back of the charger cooler.

After that I had a go at changing the oxygen sensors. On the 4.2 the down pipes bolt straight to the manifold so when I did the oxygen sensors on that I took the two bolts out of each side and dropped the front of the exhaust for access.

On the 5.0 there is a separate, very short piece of pipe that bolts to the manifold and the down pipes bolt to that meaning that the oxygen sensors are almost in the manifold at the cylinder head.

The drivers side one came out no problem using a 22mm open ended spanner. I replaced that and all was good.

I looked up at the passengers side one and it was obscured above the front propshaft. I dropped the ramp down and with the pollen filter removed could see the sensor from the top. I tried with the spanner but it was solid. Normally at this point I’d just cut the wires and use a long 22mm socket but I was trying to save these sensors so I went to Halfords and bought an oxygen sensor socket.

When I tried the new socket it started to slip and turn the edges of hex on the sensor. At this point I stopped, went into the house and got the car key, started the engine, left it running for 15 mins to get some heat into the exhaust and then cut the wires off the sensor before slipping the 6 sided socket over the top. Thankfully, at this point the sensor unscrewed without damaging the threads! I’ve left refitting the new one till tomorrow when everything has cooled down though!

The Bank 2 sensor which is the one with the -12.5% fuel trim does look much cleaner then Bank 1. It looks red in this picture but that was taken just after the car had been running for 15 mins.

Getting there David, I recon you would have noticed damaging the PCV valve but worth a check I suppose...  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
-Click here for Thread-
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click here for Project Fatty off roader-

Decided against ordering PCV valves. I don’t think I’d have been able to clip them back together if I’d have damaged them.

Just waiting for the symposer bung that lives on the rear of the supercharger to arrive from LR and I can get the car back together.

Land Rover are moving warehouses at the moment, they’re quoting up to 10 days for delivery of parts, local dealer says they’re seeing about 3 days so hopefully it arrives this week as we’re going away for the weekend and I really want to take the car with us.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

David - I'm pulling one of the banks apart on my 5.0 S/C at the moment as I seem to have a faulty injector that's flooding no 4 cylinder - is there a trick to getting the fuel rail off, or just lots of pulling to free things up and pop it off the seals on the top of the injectors?!

Thanks,

Paul

Evening Paul, apologies for my delayed response.

Once you have removed the 4 (I think it’s 4 from memory) bolts that secure the fuel rail to the cylinder head, the fuel rail should be free to come off.

One of mine pulled off fairly easily, the other one I used a pry bar to very gentle lever against and it came off.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Not at all, many thanks for responding!

Understood - I've so far been reluctant to pry given the apparently fairly delicate valve covers, but might have to put some protection on them and have a go. I've tried pulling with all sorts of things wrapped around the fuel rail at both ends, but it just doesn't want to pop off (with all 4 bolts removed!) despite a bit of movement. I also have a slide hammer with jaws arriving at the weekend as another option to try.

There seems to be a massive range looking on Youtube and here - some rails just lift off, on others people are using engine cranes, ratchet straps, telehandlers, etc. to apply upwards pressure they are so stuck! Hopefully mine isn't quite that bad...

If it helps, you pull them towards you and up at the same time.

If you put a bolt back in and look at the angle it’s sitting at, that’s the angle that you need to pull the rail at.

It’s strange that some of them are really stuck and others aren’t.

Have you got a slide hammer to remove the injectors?

Whilst you’re under the bonnet on yours, could you possible have a look down the back of the supercharger?

There’s a solenoid down there on mine with a spigot that sticks out of it. It looks odd as there’s nothing connected to the spigot. There wasn’t on mine when I got it, I just want to make sure nothing is missing.

Here’s the spigot that I’m not sure about. It never had anything connected to it when I bought mine but it looks as if it should have.

Had a look through my old pics but didn't get one there... does it blow or suck with the engine running..? Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
-Click here for Thread-
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click here for Project Fatty off roader-

Not when it’s idling.

There’s an electrical connector on it so I don’t know when it’s supposed to operate.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Right, last weekend I decided that my hesitation was in fact coming from the gearbox so I started this thread here:

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic68557.html

RRPhil very kindly sent me a solenoid to fit to the EDS2 position on the valve body to see if it was a solenoid issue or a torque converter issue so last night I set about doing the work!

When peering around the gearbox I noticed that someone has definitely been in at it before. It was also an aftermarket sump that was fitted, not a genuine ZF one. The ZF ones are made by Filtran and have the logo stamped onto them along with a date on the inside. This one had nothing.

Glad you’ve finally resolved the hesitation, David. I’d be tempted to leave it as is if it’s all running well!

A great read as usual, many thanks David


David Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

It was the little guys 1st birthday today so we did a bit of running around ferrying the in-laws about so I decided I’d use the Range Rover.

When I got onto the dual carriageway the gear change was perfect and it was locked up instantly on the road. It genuinely was like driving a different car. I’d even go as far as saying it was the first time I’d enjoyed driving the car since doing the timing chains.

On the motorway there was an odd drumming noise coming from the car. It was from the rear left corner. I had a funny feeling that it was likely to be a sticking rear caliper. This was confirmed when I got to Paisley and felt the rear left wheel to find it hot whereas the others were all stone cold.

I came home via the back roads to keep the speed down but when I got home noticed that the wheel was cold. A quick trip to Port Glasgow for some juice for the party which we’d forgotten followed by a run straight back up the dual carriage and it was still cold so it looks like the caliper has dropped off. I think I’ll strip it and clean it up and see if I can get a seal kit for it seeing as the rear calipers on these do have a habit of seizing.

I was convinced that the hesitation was engine related, especially given all the work I’d done under the bonnet when doing the timing chains. However, I’m quite chuffed that it wasn’t as it means I didn’t get anything wrong

Only thing left to do now which is going to wait until next year is undersealing and rust proofing. There’s zero rust anywhere on this car and that’s the way I’d like it to stay!

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior