Hi Gentlemen,

I am writing from Munich - Driving Land Rovers since and now since some years into Full DIY. Just finished restoration of a Merc R129 including engine and now in front of this complicated beast of engine which is probably damaged. The crank/fly wheel is not not moving and the garage before did take injectors 5-8 out and also HPFP. I bought this beauty "damaged" for 4.000 EUR with high mileage/km 236.000km. And it was planned as a project car to up my skills in engine repair. (I am a full time consultant and IT guy from my prof )

I am so grateful for this amazing community here and learning everyday!

My Top 1 Question:
I have the car in my basement garage and dont own a lift - did all other repairs with jacks and ramps.
Q: How can I remove this engine ? I cannot access the torque converter bolts as the engine is not turning
Shall I remove the front bumper/all others and then pull it with torque converter still connected ? Shall I remove the heads and all other pieces to just have the small block in ?

Q: Shall I first remove the starter motor which could be as well the reason for blocked fly wheel ?

Please advise on how to get this out in my case.

Thanks
Cheers
RR

You can pull all the front off, and propshafts off etc. - then drop engine and gearbox in one go. I’ve seen people drop them onto a long pallet and then use a pallet truck to pull it out and then move around.

When I changed my wife's engine at home, we removed the front end. Rad packs out. The full monty... Then we yanked it out of the front after removing ancillaries like the starter and anything that looked in the way... But it pretty much came out of the front as a whole unit, with heads & induction system still intact...

Hope that helps, if only a little?

Here’s a couple of threads that might be useful for rebuild…
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic68615-15.html

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic63193-165.html

In the middle of engine transplant myself, minus 2 cylinders and and a few decades on the version of RR… Touch wood, fortunately the TDV8 is running ok 😊

Thanks guys. Really appreciate this community!

Shall I first check the starter if this is the reason for blocked fly wheel or is this 100% something wrong in the engine?

Sorry to be quite so ‘to the point!’ But surely you should be 110% convinced and have checked and double checked everything five times to prove the engine is unrecoverable before ever contemplating removal sir…

Very interesting update.

After the crank was not able to turn and now removing the main shaft and everything to be ready to move the engine I tried to remove the main nut at the fly wheel. Used my air gun and didnt move. So I used my xxl 1m torque and suddenly the crank moved and I can turn this now. I feel good compression and I am wondering if I just should get new HPFP and 8 injectors (this is where the garage was searching for I believe) and try my luck first.

What you guys think ? I ordered already 8 new injectors (refurbished) and 1 new HPFP ( refurbished)

Stupid question : Anybody can point me which bolts go where on the gearbox to engine flanch ? I cannot find this information because some bolts are longer than others I pulled out and stupidly I didnt made a picture nor placing them on a cardboard.

Best!

To me that sounds like it seized due to overheating, had this before in engines, totally locked after overheating then free up later... I would guess there will be pickup marks on the bores... worth a probe with an endoscope though.... Worth a try...

If you put the bolts back in without doing them up, see how much thread sticks out, they usually try to get the same thread depth into all holes changing the size of bolt to achieve this...

Have you got the Workshop Manual, link in the Wiki that is downloadable by clicking the Wiki link at top of page under fullfatrr.com....  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
-Click here for Thread-
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click here for Project Fatty off roader-

Thanks mate.

I do have it but at least I dont find exact screw diagrams

The car had high pressure pump failures afaik and the garage (not JLR) removed the injectors 5,6,7, and didnt get 8 out and removed the HPFP. So I did 8 out with tilting engine method.

Any idea how to endoscop this ? Both my endos are to thick and they cant go through the injector holes

Get a smaller endoscope is all I can think of...  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
-Click here for Thread-
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click here for Project Fatty off roader-

After 6 hours of putting the bolts back on , putting the exhaust back on , I idiot checked the oil filter so late. It is full of chips and the crank sometimes turns smooth and then suddenly blocks. So the verdict must be , Engine bearing gone. I hope this is the only damage. So today 6 hours again screwing everything out and get ready to lift the engine out.

WTF

Another question. Is there a workshop manual for the 2010 L322 with TDV8 4.4 ? I only find one from 2002 which is great. And a collection of topix steps in a zip folder.

Starter out after 2hours naming him a piece of S&%$.

Question:

Anybody can provide a fuel injector connector for the leak line / back line for cylinder 8 ? Unfortunately it is broken. I am not willing to pay hundreds of euros for the whole line by LR.

RangerRover wrote:

Is there a workshop manual for the 2010 L322 with TDV8 4.4