Hi guys. I have a new to me 4.4 tdv8 on 135k miles. The car has full service history and some maintenance history outside of this, as well as a fresh MOT with no advisories. It also drives really well. That being said, I’m keen to get it in to the local indy and give it a freshen up/thorough check over/preventative maintenance. Aside from fresh fluids and filters throughout, is there anything worth doing at this sort of mileage such as a gearbox flush..? Anything engine related that is worth checking? There’s not really much evidence of anything being done outside of wear and tear parts and servicing every 10k miles or so.

Any and all advice/guidance welcome.
Tia.

Get a full inspection report from your indy and take it from there. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Hi and welcome to the forum and Range Rover ownership.
I would recommend looking at underselling the chassis including spraying inside the box sections. Also check the rear arches for signs of rust and the sills beneath the plastic sill skirts.
You may want to check condition of brake lines or any thing flagged as an advisory in the most recent couple of MoTs.

I have owned my 2012 Westminster 4.4tdv8 since January so I have been going through the same process as yourself. I too did fluids, filters,underseal, arches and my next thing will be front brake discs and pads and the gearbox flush but it just passed MoT with no advisories which is a good place to be.

Well done on a 4.4TDV8, an excellent engine and gearbox combination.

There's plenty of things which will probably pop up, however on this engine, they're normally from a select few well-documented issues that are straightforward to diagnose.

If you're handy with spanners, you can save thousands.


Key things are oil and filter change every 5,000-7,500, full service every 15,000. Doing a service on this engine is easy peasy - everything is easily accessible. Every 1,000 miles take out the MAP sensor and give it a clean.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic60560.html
There's also a port for vacuum of the oil with something like the Draper tool I now use.


When you do the MAP sensor each time, have a good inspection around the 4x donut hoses, the 2x charge hoses and the union to the throttle body for signs of soot. Easy fixes but common on these for the hoses to develop minute cracks or the throttle body union seal to fail, cause an intake leak and give you a red or amber DPF full alert.


Change the diff oils and transfer box oils now if you have no evidence of them having been done before and plan to change them every few years.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic67275.html
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic67285.html


Change the gearbox oil and filter soon. Many members swear by using Bodsy or Dartford Transmissions. When I've serviced the 6 speed and 8 speed before, the fluid has still been relatively clean, so up to you on that one. The job is quite mucky and labour intensive if changing the seals also, so best let a mechanic mess up their floor rather than your driveway.


Around this kind of mileage, it's common for the exhaust gas temperature sensor to fail. Keep an eye out for the fault code P040D (you won't get any messages on the dash). Guide here: https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic67357.html

Oil leaks - normally 2 culprits. One is the oil cooler O rings - chances are at 135k your car has already had these done. Symptoms would be oil in the V and/or in the coolant expansion tank. The second is the two o-rings on the oil feed hoses at the top of the engine. When/if these leak, the oil makes its way onto the bell housing. Easy fix - 2x new o-rings.


The pressure release valve is a common fault on the air con compressor on these engines. Mine went at around 140k. Symptoms are no air con or a short burst of acceleration above 2,200rpm causing the air con to kick in. Guide here: https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic63889.html


Running gear wise, the rear brake calipers are notorious for seizing or sticking. OEM are TRW and when on special offer, they can be had for £80ish. You can also buy refurb kits for around £15 - a car tyre air compressor is enough to pop the piston out on these little things. When you do your MAP sensor clean, check the rear discs for colouration (blue/green colour) as a sign of heat build up signifying a sticking caliper. The front calipers generally don't experience any functional issues, however the bleed valves weld themselves to the caliper making them impossible to bleed. Answer is to put up with them if braking performance is not significantly affected or get them sent off for professional refurb (about £300 per pair).


In terms of electricals, the late L322s are pretty solid. Only thing I can think of is the fan blower bearings failing. Symptoms are no blower or the sound of a family of mice living in your dashboard. Guide here: https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic67642.html

If you have heated and cooled seats, you may find the peltier cell inside the seat has failed and you don't have seat heating and/or cooling. I do repairs of these.


Bodywork wise, a few issues all L322s get; corroded subframes and corroded wheel arches / sills.

Keep an eye on bubbling of the paintwork around wheel arches and in the door shuts.

You can pretty much guarantee you'll have corrosion of your subframes if you look underneath.

The answer to both is to rub down, use a rust converter like Aquasteel and then buy the Lanoguard kit and apply all over.

 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Last edited by garyRR on 17th Aug 2023 9:58pm. Edited 1 time in total

Where in the UK are you?

Fourth post down documents everything I’ve done.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic44115...p;start=75 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Thanks for all the detailed information. Much appreciated and definitely given me some food for thought. Good to hear that they’re still suitable for the home mechanic.

garyRR wrote:

If you have heated and cooled seats, you may find the peltier cell inside the seat has failed and you don't have seat heating and/or cooling. I do repairs of these.

Hi Gary, I'm currently negotiating my way into a 4.4 tdv8 and one of the issues it has is heating doesnt work (cooling does) on drivers seat only.

How much do you charge to repair these? Guessing they need to be removed and posted to you, or are you mobile?

Also, I wonder if the seat base may still not work even if peltier repaired, do you know what the score is with that, is it a separate electrical heating mat or something?

I'm assuming here that the peltier is the issue of course

Thanks in advance

Deficit

The Peltier is between 70 and 150 pounds your money. Easy job to DIY or there are people who will do it for you all day long. Not heating mat in these cars, its hot air or cold air. My 4.4 has the same issue on both sides. Depending on the year of the car older models needed the corrugate tubing replaced. My 4.4 is a 12 reg and the corrugate is good but the peltier is shot. Ive a few jobs to do first before I tavkle mine but I cannot wait to have heated seats. Current yokes
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster
2006 Disco 3
Scoobie GT wagon
Mx5 G Ltd
TT S Line
Pajero JDM Exceed

That's a seriously good list garyRR, maybe one for the wiiki? 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue

I bought my l322 with a lot of preventative maintenance already completed and I’m thankful for it. I’ve kept up with the service plan (earlier than scheduled) and had no issues.

Oil changes every 6k and full service every 12k. Of anything did happen at least I know I’ve bettered LR’s recommendations