| My no cranking fix - zero cost | |
My situation.
* The position sensor in the steering lock failed, these are impossible to source so its a second
hand upper steering column with a whole steering lock computer/mechanism for $1000 or apply the
lock motor delete & 'Blue Wire' fix. I connected the blue wire to the curtesy light.
* The version 3.3 EWS (Anti Theft System) gets a dedicated signal on the Blue Wire from low spec
vehicles plus it sees a broadcast message on the K-Bus [(K)Control Bus] that passes messages
between ancillary equipment throughout the car on high spec vehicles.
* The rain sensor (on the windscreen, beneath the rear view mirror) failed and shorted out the K-Bus.
* Many K-Bus modules were reported by the IDE (Instrument Cluster/main computer) as failed or not
working, eg 'Air Suspension Inactive'. The IDE didn't know why because it got no K-Bus messages.
* Without the K-Bus, the steering lock could not report at all to the EWS which then kept the ignition
key barrel locked and the start signal wire open.
* The EWS did still validate keys in the ignition barrel and tried to broadcast this on the K-Bus. But
because the key could not turn to position II the EWS-DME (Engine Control Module) authorization
didn't happen and the DME remained immobilized. Confirmed with Icarsoft OBD2 reader after fix.
* The plastic 'buffer' on the ignition lock release solenoid core had brocken, but this did not
interfered with its movement (yet).
What I did.
# Unplug the rain sensor K-Bus wire from the distributor bus bar under the left front seat. This
restored the K-Bus. Wire is White with Red stripe and Yellow dots. Sensor to be examined later.
 | | Click image to enlarge |
# Pull the centre console apart and move back ~30mm and raise ~100mm to access the EWS &
Ignition barrel. I used a small block of 4 x 2 timber to hold it up.
# Remove the EWS. 1 x 8mm hex bolt and it just lifts out. Disconnect its cable.
# Remove ignition barrel, 2 torqs screws at the top, undo 3 plugs and the push cable from the gear
lever. Prise the casing away from the solenoid housing, pull apart with vise and pliers.
This was impossible to do in place, I needed 2 extra hands in confined space, had to use the vise.
 | | Click image to enlarge |
Here's the solenoid slug (with small spring on it) and brocken blue plastic buffer bits in the housing.
 | | Click image to enlarge |
# Cut the lock pin off the ignition barrel locking solenoid slug. Removed the buffer ring debris.
# By-passed the starter isolating relay in the Vr3.3 EWS (don't know if this will work in later systems).
# Disconnected the battery for 10 minutes to reset all modules. All fixed. Starts like a real car.
Problems -
The K-Bus distributer bar is in a narrow isolation box clipped into the Body Control Module's mounting
tray. Tilting the whole box to the side compresses its locking clips then a tug with pliers lifts it out.
The locking bar is held in the box with a series of plastic tabs, I used thin shims pushed down from the
top to release these then the bar and wires came out. But wait, there's more ...
Each Bus wire terminates in a special locking plug with 2 pins that get pressed into a hole in the bar.
Both of these need to be levered up with a small screw driver then the plug can be pulled off the bar
with the aid of 2 pairs of pliers. These plugs definately would never vibrate loose.
 | | Click image to enlarge |
The solenoid housing on the ignition barrel can not be removed in place. Again shims were needed
over the 4 locking lugs and a vise is required to grip the housing when pulling apart. Watch for small
springs falling off the solenoid slug.
There is a push cable from the gear lever that prevents removing a key if the gearbox is not at Park.
The bayonet clamp for this often undoes itself, so there will usually be a cable tie around it to prevent
movement. If there isn't I suggest adding one as a preventative maintainance measure.
If the Ignition barrel casing won't hold the solenoid module in place (after breaking several lugs while
pulling it off), wrap two cable ties around it too.
What have I done ???
Removed the steering lock function, but Ford did that from 2006 on, so that must be Ok, right?
Removed the ignition barrel lock. So I won't get the criptic K-Bus has failed 'message'.
Bypassed the EWS starter motor signal relay, to allow cranking regardless of steering lock not talking.
Retained the mechanical key in ignition barrel locking mechanism.
Retained the valid key check.
Retained the EWS-DME 'marriage' to allow engine operation.
Does any of this worry me ?
None of my previous vehicles had a steering lock so that doesn't bother me.
The key turns and the starter cranks just like all my previous cars.
The key is validated (mechanically & electrically) and the EWS-DME marriage is evaluated so the theft
risk hasn't changed, so no I'm not worried about being able to start my comfortable, 20 year old car.
How long did it take ?
Now that I know how, it would be much faster a second time (but I won't have to).
The steering lock motor delete and Blue Wire fix would be less than 1 hour if all the required tools
and hardware are gathered and ready to go.
Trouble shooting the K-Bus is 20 minutes including removing and re-fitting the seat.
Stripping (10 screws) and moving the centre console and replacing it when finished is just 20 minutes.
Removing the EWS and ignition barrel and replacing when finished is just 10 minutes.
Soldering the EWS, opening the igniition solenoid, cutting the slug tip off, reassembly, closing it
and refitting really is also just 10 minutes. Its just a solder bridge and a small cut after all.
So 2 hours for the lot. Read the nstructions, study the pictures, gather the tools and go for it.
bye. 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia
|
26th Sep 2022 9:54am
